And yes, it’s Sanremo, Italian style – San Remo is the Anglicised version…

Tired of those repetitive, generic European holiday destinations? You know the ones; where any photo could be Benidorm, or Ayia Napa, or one of a thousand destinations. Yes?

Then Sanremo – a gloriously unpolished gem on the Italian Riviera – could be for you.

I arrived with no expectations. I deliberately hadn’t read up too much on it because I like surprises. But within hours I felt very much at home. Part modern, part run-down in the best possible way; so, not completely untouched by time. But some areas are clearly untouched perhaps since Elton and Kiki were topping the charts with Don’t Go Breaking My Heart.

This thousand-year-old town wraps itself around you. No flyer-bearing hotties trying to lure you into their restaurants and clubs. And no ridiculous overpricing that makes you clutch your Cuba Libre like it’s the last one on earth. Just authentic, lived-in Liguria with a side order of retro charm.

Immerse yourself in another world

I stayed at the elegant Europa Palace Hotel, right in the heart of town, on the dreamy palm tree-lined Corso Imperatrice. This historic beauty, a landmark since 1874, has been completely refurbished and reopened, with sleek contemporary flair while keeping all its old Riviera soul.

The lobby is light and airy, the staff smiley and welcoming. My room had glorious sea views; I could watch the waves from my balcony while sipping morning coffee. The rooftop terrace (RUFtop) with olive trees and sweeping views is the perfect spot for a sunset aperitivo.

Location-wise it’s ideal. Directly opposite the Sanremo Casino, a short stroll to the beach, and perfectly placed for dipping in and out of town. If you want a hint of posh without losing the authentic edge, this is it.

Sitting on the Lungomare Italo Calvino, the seafront promenade, is lovely even though the beaches aren’t all Instagram-perfect. Some sand is grey and gravelly, but a short walk brings you to one you’ll like. Access is via steps through restaurants, which confused me at first – I thought you had to eat there, but you don’t. You can simply go through them, down to the sea.

The main attraction is, of course, the gently rippling, blue silky water sparkling in the sunlight. Much of the town has a real ‘70s vibe, with its casinos and faded glamour. Sanremo isn’t pretending to be anything it isn’t. It is what it is, and I like it a lot. It’s different, unapologetically old-fashioned and not trying too hard.

This is a slower, more authentic-feeling old Italy

Last year I felt Italian connections in Florence, the Dolomites and Sicily. Here it feels deeper and more authentic. Perhaps I lived here in a past life in the ‘40s or ‘50s, sipping Campari and losing small fortunes at blackjack in a glamorous evening gown.

It’s still not overrun by Brits, like other Italian destinations can be. I barely heard English spoken. Call me unpatriotic, but I love a destination senza gli Inglese sometimes. The locals seem more refined, and quieter; this feels like a place Italians come for weekend respite or a jaunt to the casino. It’s their secret, and I’m almost reluctantly sharing it.

The sheer number of palm trees is quite something. My chatty taxi driver Luigi told me they were a gift from Tsarina Maria Alexandrovna in the 1860s. She loved the mild climate, and donated the first palms that still line the Corso Imperatrice (named after her) today. A beautiful Russian Orthodox church, turquoise and gold like a Fabergé egg, stands as a reminder. The view from the hotel rooftop is spectacular.

Wander up into La Pigna, the old town, and you enter a maze of narrow, steep alleyways scented with laundry, basil and coffee. Tiny piazzas, fluttering laundry, and supercilious cats complete the scene. At the top, the Madonna della Costa Sanctuary offers heart-somersaulting views. I sat in the gardens of Queen Elena with a pistachio and fior di latte gelato and thought, this is why we travel.

Time for some nighttime fun

The Casinò di Sanremo exterior is a white Art Nouveau delight. Inside, the bright lighting and intense faces at the tables make it feel more like hard work than fun! I had a good nose around but didn’t gamble. I’m not much of a financial risk-taker. Next door along Via Matteotti is the Teatro Ariston, home of the famous Sanremo Music Festival, buzzing even outside season.

And the food? Heavenly. Liguria means the best pesto, handmade trofie pasta, ultra-fresh seafood and pillowy focaccia. I ate at beach cafés, Clapsy (unenticing name but great restaurant) by the harbour, and on the main shopping street. But my absolute favourite was the hotel’s Rêve Bistrot.

I’ve eaten at many amazing places as a travel writer, but this one now tops my list. I started with a Baby Bamboo cocktail (dark and white rum with passion fruit and grapefruit). The Peruvian chef’s ceviche matched anything I had in Peru. The wild garlic risotto, seared tuna belly, fillet steak and strawberry-vanilla gelato were all sublime.

The next day I returned for a four-course lunch of homemade pesto pasta, sea bass and more – service exquisite. Highly recommend!

Sanremo is also famous for flowers, so everything feels scented and celebratory.

Activities during the day

I was tempted to hire one of the hotel’s bikes and cycle the seaside Pista Ciclabile, but my iffy road sense and love of daytime wine made me think twice. Instead, I walked everywhere. Despite my terrible sense of direction, I never got lost once.

Everything I love is here: espresso at local bars, chats with residents, beach time, and sea swims. One evening I had a gorgeous swim at Fontana Lido, where rocks create a natural crescent pool. The water was a refreshing 16 degrees – perfect as the sun set.

There’s something quirkily warming and healing about Sanremo. The tsarina knew it; I felt it too, waking each morning in that bright room at the Europa Palace ready for another day. The best thing is its lack of flashiness. It’s comfortable in its own slightly wrinkled skin, like me, and like so many of us. Quite rightly.

If you’re craving something authentic, authentically shabby around the edges but with posh moments when you want them, Sanremo is calling. Come for the palms, the sea, and the soul-soothing. Stay for the food and the swimming. Bring comfortable shoes for La Pigna, an open heart, and maybe a few euros for a flutter. You might leave lighter of wallet, but you’ll be richer in every other way.

I found an old friend here – and I can’t wait to go back.

The Europa Palace Hotel – book rooms direct online
Book a table at the restaurant