Why SPF is the vital item in your daily skincare kit

No matter how cloudy it is, a decent layer of SPF50 (ideally) is absolutely vital to protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays and the damage they cause. And as we age, our skin’s needs also change. So what are the best sunscreen choices for us, especially as we hit mid-life?

I am obsessed with SPF. This is because, like many readers, I suspect, I spent much of my teens and twenties effectively slow-roasting myself in every possible location. That’s all the way from lying on foil in the back garden in my childhood home in the Lake District to living in the South of France for a year sans sun cream and, indeed, sans sunglasses.

Sunscreen wasn’t on my radar then, but time has caught up

It is now evident that the sins of your youth do haunt you. Usually in the form of wrinkles, sun spots, and those weird white spots that suddenly appear when you’re over the age of 50, at which point – klaxon alert for anyone under that age – there seems to be some sort of speeded-up ageing process thanks to our diminishing hormones.

‘UV rays are present year round, and can accelerate premature ageing and skin damage,’ says cosmetic dermatologist Dr Nora (Jaafar), whom I saw recently talking about just this subject (in depressing detail) at Superdrug’s #SkinSpringing event last month, when the current temperatures seemed unimaginable.

UV rays are present year round, and can accelerate premature ageing and skin damage

‘As we age, especially during and after menopause, skin becomes thinner and more vulnerable due to hormonal changes,’ she points out. ‘This makes it more susceptible to UV damage. So daily SPF is key to protecting collagen, maintaining skin strength, and supporting a more even complexion.’

Without the protection of oestrogen, we produce less collagen and elastin, meaning that skin loses plumpness, and wrinkles and sun spots are more evident. Thinner skin may be more reactive, and prone to damage.

If I could go back in time…

There are many things I’d change, and reckless sun-bathing is one of them. But there is still a great deal we can do to mitigate our sun-drenched pasts.

First of all, however old you are, if you aren’t using sunscreen, then change your ways, and that means 365 days a year. Select a formula with SPF30 or higher. Ensure it’s what’s known as broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB protection) and add in water resistance if you’re swimming or sweating.

There are two types of formula. Mineral uses active ingredients such as zinc oxide that sit on the skin to block rays. Or chemical sunscreen absorbs rays and converts them to heat. And apply enough – an adult needs around six to eight teaspoons worth for their whole body, which sounds like a lot!

Yes, we do need vitamin D, but…

Yes, we do need vitamin D, if you’re thinking that we must require some direct sunlight. But it’s not that straightforward. ‘Sunlight does help our bodies produce vitamin D, and some sensible incidental exposure can contribute to maintaining levels,’ says Art Clinic’s Dr Priya Verma.  ‘However, deliberately exposing the skin to UV radiation without protection in the hope of boosting vitamin D is not something I recommend, particularly given the long-term risks of photoageing and skin cancer.’

I’m hearing many doctors recommending supplementation to ensure sufficient intake. ‘I encourage patients to discuss vitamin D testing and supplementation with their GP or healthcare practitioner to determine what’s appropriate for them individually,’ says Dr Verma.

Keep an eye on any skin changes

It’s also always worth going for mole mapping. There are clinics and even high-street checks available nationwide. (If you have any concerns about a mole, see your GP).

As for cosmetic solutions, thankfully there are plenty of regenerative treatments and products available. ‘Ingredients such as retinoids, antioxidants like vitamin C and professional treatments including collagen-stimulating lasers and microneedling can all help repair and strengthen sun-damaged skin over time,’ says Dr Verma.

I have become one of those women I once swore I’d never turn into; stationed permanently beneath a parasol, hat pulled low, layered in SPF like icing on a cake. And yet, rather smugly, I’ve realised you can still love the sun without sacrificing your skin to it.

DREAM CREAMS

Superdrug Me_ Hydrating SPF50 with Vitamin E, currently £6.66, Superdrug.com. Excellent value, rubs in easily, and a nifty tube that fits easily into a bag.

Altruist Primer, SPF50, £7.12, hollandandbarrett.com: The beauty editor favourite and with good reason. Really high-quality sun creams and all at an incredibly good price.

Labareau The Protector SPF50, €69, labareau.com   A pricier option but gorgeous to use, stunning packaging, and has DNA repair and anti-ageing properties as well as protection against daylight, blue light and free radicals.

Naked Sundays Beauty Screen Mineral Peptide Foundation Tint SPF50, £38, cultbeauty.co.uk. I love a skin tint – and this is designed to be reapplied over makeup, which is frankly genius. A great anti-ageing multi-tasker as it also contains hyaluronic acid and peptides.

Belif Super Drops Hydrating Sun Serum SPF50+, £22. Tapping into the K-beauty (Korean) trend, this targeted serum is light, liquid and a little goes a very long way. Great for teens who still don’t believe that they’re ever going to get wrinkles.

P20 Sensitive Face SPF50+, RRP £29.99 200ml. Famously impenetrable sunscreen and fave of Australians, this is now available as a face cream. High level UVA protection for up to 10 hours, allergy certification, water resistant, and surprisingly unclaggy on the face.