Regency fever is back, with The Other Bennet Sister inspiring everyone, and a new series of Bridgerton on its way…

So what better place to immerse yourself in the Regency vibes than Bath?

There’s something satisfying about being a tourist in your own country. I travel a fair bit, but Bath has been sitting there, patiently waiting for me to give it the attention it deserves. And with Regency fever in the air again, it feels like the right moment to get stuck in.

We were a small press group, and I arrived a day ahead on my own, travelling down with GWR and checking into Eight in Bath, an elegant boutique hotel overlooking the Giant Plane Tree. It’s a relaxed sort of place, the kind that immediately puts you at ease. My room looked out onto the tree itself, a rather grand resident of the city and, as it happens, a filming location for Bridgerton. A promising start to my Regency quest.

With the evening to myself, I headed out into the rain. Bath is one of those places that doesn’t really lose anything in bad weather. If anything, everything feels more authentic and atmospheric. And the hotels all have brollies you can borrow – the West Country is no stranger to rain – so you have no excuse not to explore.

Pies, pints and a proper welcome

After doing some research, I plumped for dinner at The Raven of Bath, a historic pub known for its pies and home-brewed beer. It felt like the right choice. If you’re going to lean into the whole Regency mood, you may as well commit properly, I felt. I ordered a pie and a pint, and settled in for the evening.

The place has a proper local feel. I found myself chatting with the barman and a couple of regulars, the sort of conversation that tends to only happen when you’re on your own and open to it.

The food and the beer were both excellent. I ate rather too well, and took it all in, enjoying the quiet pace away from home and work for a change.

Doing the tourist thing properly

The next morning, I decided to fully embrace my inner tourist. After the previous night’s meaty enthusiasm, I decided on the lighter veggie full English, which was terrific. I then grabbed another brolly and headed out.

Armed with a press pass from Visit Bath, I set off for the Roman Baths. It’s one of those places you feel you should see, and I did rather love it. Yes, it’s busy, and yes, there are a lot of Americans, bless them, but it’s also quietly extraordinary. We’re so used to history in the UK that it’s easy to forget just how remarkable it is to walk around something this old, and this well preserved.

From there, I beetled off to the Jane Austen Centre. Be aware if you’re planning to visit, you need to book onto a tour rather than wander about the house unguided, but it’s worth it. The introductory talk gives a real sense of Austen’s life, and her time in Bath, and how the city shaped her writing. Afterwards, there’s a chance to explore the rooms and, if you’re so inclined, try on a bit of Regency attire. Naturally, I did (see top pic). Throughout most of the house tour, photography is forbidden, FYI.

A gothic detour

Mary Shelley’s House of Frankenstein – only a few doors up – offers something entirely different. Part historical tribute to Mrs Shelley, part playful horror attraction, it covers both sides with great enthusiasm, and a lot of atmos.

There’s a surprising amount of detail on Mary Shelley’s life and work, alongside some properly gothic installations. It’s slightly theatrical, slightly chaotic, and very good fun. There’s also a basement experience, which I can report on only second-hand, as I genuinely wimped out of going into it. Jump scares are not my cup of tea, and the dangly curtains and scary music got to me.

It’s the kind of place that doesn’t take itself too seriously, and that’s exactly why it works. I can also see the appeal for private events. If you’re going to host a party, this would be a riot.

A change of pace – wellness time

By the afternoon, it was time to meet the rest of the group and shift gears slightly. We started with Japanese afternoon tea at Robun, a light, airy restaurant that offers a different take on the traditional tea format. No cucumber sandwiches for us. This kicked off with miso soup, followed by bao buns and other delicate fishy savouries, and finally a selection of delish desserts, all presented on a tiered stand. It’s thoughtful, beautifully executed, and a real change from the usual sandwiches and scones.

From there, we visited the Bramley store in Shires Yard. Bramley is known for its natural, British-made bath and body products, and we were each given a skin assessment before being matched with a few items to take away.

It was a gentle introduction to the Rebalance wellness festival, which runs in Bath in very early spring each year, and focuses on taking a more considered approach to wellbeing.

Switching off, properly

Our next stop was Soul Spa, for a different kind of bath – a sound bath. I’ve never been able to settle into one of those before – I get fidgety. But this was wonderful.

They have the MOST comfortable reclining chairs, complete with pouffes and blankets. Within minutes, I felt myself properly switch off. literally felt about six months of stress melt away.

Fire, steak and a martini

Dinner that evening was at Emberwood, where the smell of wood smoke hits you before you even sit down. Open-fire cooking is at the heart of the menu.

This is very much a place for meat. Steaks in particular are a highlight, cooked over flame and served simply. Heaven. I took full advantage, pairing mine with a classic béarnaise. Probably wouldn’t recommend this place to a vegan, but if high welfare grilled meats, fresh fish, and seafood is your thing, this is your mecca.

There’s also a cocktail trolley, which I was determined to see in action. After some ‘gentle persuasion’, it was wheeled over and I was presented with a martini made tableside. What a decadent treat!

I love the fact that everything is easily walkable in Bath. We all wandered back to our various differing hotels, and called it a very happy good night.

A Bath like no other

The following morning began early at Thermae Bath Spa, which was absolutely one of the standout moments of the trip.

We were given access before opening, which meant the rooftop pool was all ours. Bobbing about in warm, mineral-rich water, with the city stretching out around you and a light drizzle in the air, was lush. There’s just something about being outdoors and in the water. In out of it.

Inside, the spa circuit offers a mix of steam rooms, saunas and cooling spaces. It’s a full reset, and a very good way to start the day.

A quick note of advice: don’t do what I did and wander about the changing rooms naked – it’s a public baths. I gave the security guard the fright of his life coming out of the shower like Lady Godiva.

Small details, lasting impressions

Back at the hotel, breakfast was a more traditional affair this time, and just as good. I also spent a moment exploring the honesty bar, which runs entirely on trust. Guests note down what they’ve had, and the staff tally it up later.

Apparently, people tend to overestimate rather than underreport. It’s a small detail, but one that says a lot about the kind of place Eight in Bath is, and the kind of people who stay there, bless ‘em.

Before leaving the city, I took one last walk. Bath has a way of encouraging you to slow down. Teashops, bakeries and small independent stores line the streets, and there’s a gentle rhythm to it all. You can see why it lends itself so easily to the Regency vibe.

A healthy lunch

Our final stop was Combe Grove, a centre focused on metabolic health, set just outside the city.

Lunch was light, fresh and thoughtfully put together, followed by a talk on nutrition and how to support/boost your metabolism. It’s a complex subject, and one that probably deserves more space than a short visit allows, but it offered an interesting counterpoint to the indulgence of the previous day.

Bath, it seems, is quite comfortable holding both sides of most things. Heritage and modernity, indulgence and restraint, history and wellness.

Holidays on home territory

As I made my way home, I thought – not for the first time – how lovely it is to spend time exploring parts of the UK. No fighting through the airport, or contributing to carbon footprint so much. I absolutely love travelling by train, too. And Bath isn’t just a historic city or a filming backdrop. It’s somewhere you can eat well, slow down, learn stuff, and, if you’re lucky like me, get a little reset in the process.

It’s also jam-packed with attractions, places to visit, and it’s a must-see for heritage and Regency nuts.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time as a proper tourist in one of the most famous cities in the world. Go and find out for yourself why it’s so lovely.

Find out more with Visit Bath and Visit West

Getting there with GWR

There’s something satisfying about doing train travel properly, and GWR makes a strong case for it. I travelled up from London Paddington to Bath, before heading back via Southampton, and the whole journey felt easy from the outset.

Paddington’s first-class lounge sets the tone. Tucked away from the main rush, it’s calm, well set up, and surprisingly comfortable. There are workspaces and sofas, good coffee, fresh juices in the fridge, and a steady supply of snacks. There’s also a really classy hidden section that you need to look for.

It’s the sort of place you could happily spend time in, rather than just passing through. There are even showers if you need them. I may have taken a few extra snacks for the journey, although strictly speaking I didn’t need to.

Boarding the train, there’s always a quiet thrill in ‘turning left’. First Class on GWR is spacious and well considered, with large tables, plenty of room for luggage, and charging points at every seat. Even on a Sunday morning, it felt relaxed, and not crowded.

The service starts quickly. A complimentary trolley comes through with snacks and drinks, and the Wi-Fi, after a brief wobble leaving the station, settled into a reliable connection. For anyone used to more temperamental rail services, it feels like a bit of a step up.

Best of all, Bath is reachable in under 80 minutes from London, making it an easy option for a short break without the stress of driving. It’s comfortable, convenient, and a reminder that train travel, when done well, still has a certain charm.

Even traveling back home in standard class I was impressed with the service.

Check out GWR

The Rebalance Festival takes place every year, so look out for the itinerary launching next Spring.